Helicon remote.1/8/2024 If you need to get everything in focus in a scene, I recommend the following: At the moment, you have to guesstimate (so check your results, and experiment). Based on calculating the near-far distances in the scene, the camera would decide the distance between each step and the number of steps needed based on the aperture you’re using. I can easily see a future where the camera figures everything out for you. The focus distance difference between frames is the same for f/1.4 as it is for f/16, so you have to choose your aperture carefully to get good coverage at your working distance, number of frames, and “step” value. The aperture you’re using is not taken into account in determining the distance between focus points in each frame. It would also be nice to know if the steps are linear (e.g., Step 5 is half of Step 10).ĮDIT: See post further down I think I figured this out. It would be very useful to know how that works so you don’t have to use trial-and-error. Thus, if you focus at 1 m and shoot 100 frames at “Step 1”, the final focal point will not be as far into the scene as if you shoot 100 frames at “Step 10”. The “step” value seems to be a modifier on the size of the distance. In other words, if you’re focusing at macro distances, the distance between frames is very small, whereas at landscape distances it is much larger. The distance between the frames is partly a function of the distance to the initial point of focus increases. The black box here is how exactly the distance between points of focus in each shot is calculated. The camera will then shoot as many frames as you’ve chosen starting with your initial focus point it shifts focus forward by a distance that is "influenced" by the value you chose for “step”. Once you’ve set it up, you have to decide where the point of focus is in the first frame. You can shoot between 1 and 999 frames, and the interval between frames can be between 0 and 10 seconds. You have to configure three settings: number of frames to shoot, "step", and interval between shots. It actually feels like cheating to be honest!įocus stacking is one of the bracket modes on Fuji cameras that have the feature. Needless to say you can do this with any camera. You can generate stacks semi-automatically using the tools Fuji (and other manufacturers) offer, or manually (you adjust the focus yourself for each picture in the stack). Combining these images in software will (if they were shot properly) give you an image where everything is in focus. Your goal is to shoot a “stack” for each scene where the scene is the same but the point of focus moves in the image. We use focus stacking to get things in focus that can’t be brought into focus using depth of field alone, or by using tilt. The X-T2 is one of those models (through a firmware update). In some recent models Fuji has added a “focus bracketing” feature. USING FOCUS BRACKETING IN FUJI TO CREATE A STACK I’m also looking for ways to improve my technique, so all suggestions are welcome. If you’re already an expert in focus stacking, then move along, nothing to see here! However, if you’re not and you wondered how to use Fuji’s Focus Bracket tools, then these notes may be of interest. However, I hit a wall recently and have dived into focus stacking using a Fuji X-T2 and Helicon Focus Pro. I’ve never used it before for various non-reasons (e.g., must get it right in camera with one shot…). Unfortunately, there are many scenarios where adjusting the plane of focus using tilt doesn’t allow you to get everything that should be in focus in focus.įocus stacking is an obvious solution. I use this to “get it right in camera”, and it works much of the time. I have a flexible tilt-shift setup on my Fuji X-T2 that has served me well. Focus stacking with Fuji and Helicon Focus.
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